1 week ago

Always an honor and privilege to be asked to surf in the annual Malibu Invitational. Still waiting for an epic year of waves, but the positivity surrounding this gathering is all time, and getting to help the kids via Jimmy Gamboa’s TheraSurf organization is so inspiring. Thanks to all who made this year’s event happen, can’t wait for the 9th event in 2015.

2 weeks ago
Jorge has spent a lifetime besides these lefts, and never once considered surfing them… But then he can create a strawberry field full of the biggest and tastiest ones you could imagine.

Jorge has spent a lifetime besides these lefts, and never once considered surfing them… But then he can create a strawberry field full of the biggest and tastiest ones you could imagine.

2 weeks ago
@iamtorquato utilized every moment of his trip, and his canvas soaked up all the elements this week down on the rocks and reef and beach below my house. They gained colors to reflect the surrounding scene, wind and waves for added texture, and dogs and sand for further effect. Thanks to @alwider for the perfectly made local wood frame and @chucklumpy for encouragement, this fine piece will now honor a wall here forever. Couldn’t be more stoked to watch the process and have the memory live on. Muchas gracias compadres! #reefpaintings #michaeldenicola #iamtorquato

@iamtorquato utilized every moment of his trip, and his canvas soaked up all the elements this week down on the rocks and reef and beach below my house. They gained colors to reflect the surrounding scene, wind and waves for added texture, and dogs and sand for further effect. Thanks to @alwider for the perfectly made local wood frame and @chucklumpy for encouragement, this fine piece will now honor a wall here forever. Couldn’t be more stoked to watch the process and have the memory live on. Muchas gracias compadres! #reefpaintings #michaeldenicola #iamtorquato

No trick, @chucklumpy became clearer, when @iamtorquato returned with his #reefpaintings

No trick, @chucklumpy became clearer, when @iamtorquato returned with his #reefpaintings

2 weeks ago
From the pages of “A Field Guide To Getting Lost” by
Rebecca Solnit… “Seldom is it as dramatic (as in the case of a caterpillar becoming a butterfly), but nevertheless, something of this journey between the near and the far goes on in every life. Sometimes an old photograph, an old friend, an old letter will remind you that you are not who you once were, for the person who dwelt among them, valued this, chose that, write thus, no longer exists. Without noticing it you have traversed a great distance, the strange has become familiar and the familiar if not strange at least awkward or uncomfortable, an outgrown garment.”

From the pages of “A Field Guide To Getting Lost” by
Rebecca Solnit… “Seldom is it as dramatic (as in the case of a caterpillar becoming a butterfly), but nevertheless, something of this journey between the near and the far goes on in every life. Sometimes an old photograph, an old friend, an old letter will remind you that you are not who you once were, for the person who dwelt among them, valued this, chose that, write thus, no longer exists. Without noticing it you have traversed a great distance, the strange has become familiar and the familiar if not strange at least awkward or uncomfortable, an outgrown garment.”

2 weeks ago
My beloved neighbor here in the southern land, Don Alvaro, never ceases to amaze me with his creations and dedication. He’s almost 90 now, and just finished building this model ship, all without any help or directions. He basically read an article about the infamous sailor Sinbad, pieced together what he must of used to achieve his travels, and then from that alone, started building this by hand, every detail included.

My beloved neighbor here in the southern land, Don Alvaro, never ceases to amaze me with his creations and dedication. He’s almost 90 now, and just finished building this model ship, all without any help or directions. He basically read an article about the infamous sailor Sinbad, pieced together what he must of used to achieve his travels, and then from that alone, started building this by hand, every detail included.

3 weeks ago
The life I love… Stoked to share a slice with @iamtorquato and @chucklumpy @alwider

The life I love… Stoked to share a slice with @iamtorquato and @chucklumpy @alwider

3 weeks ago
Californian dreaming alive and well…

Californian dreaming alive and well…

Happy 4th!… Couple new toys to play with, close to the Mexican border, cheers @swallowtailsociety and @kaneskennar

Happy 4th!… Couple new toys to play with, close to the Mexican border, cheers @swallowtailsociety and @kaneskennar

Two of California’s finest, looking all golden this fine summer’s day. @bangbangboogie and miss @kassiameador. Shooting the Venice pier was never so much fun, plus a thousand laughs getting to hang with them. If you want to watch a sick clip of Jared, check out @crapeyewear

Two of California’s finest, looking all golden this fine summer’s day. @bangbangboogie and miss @kassiameador. Shooting the Venice pier was never so much fun, plus a thousand laughs getting to hang with them. If you want to watch a sick clip of Jared, check out @crapeyewear

4 weeks ago
Always inspiring to hang with @iamtorquato, in or out of the water, and today was no different as we scanned the Pacific Ocean and discussed his upcoming art show, this Saturday in Venice. Michael DeNicola’s an incredible surfer and has been working on a series of reef paintings, taken literally from laying canvas over exposed reefs and adding colors from the surrounding areas. Awesome work mate.

Always inspiring to hang with @iamtorquato, in or out of the water, and today was no different as we scanned the Pacific Ocean and discussed his upcoming art show, this Saturday in Venice. Michael DeNicola’s an incredible surfer and has been working on a series of reef paintings, taken literally from laying canvas over exposed reefs and adding colors from the surrounding areas. Awesome work mate.

1 month ago
Got to experience surfing in China today, at Big Wave Bay Beach. 19 years ago I published an article about the same spot in Waves magazine, Australia, so it was a real privilege to finally make it there and share some fun, albeit tiny rides with Drew Downs and Steve Gorrow.

Got to experience surfing in China today, at Big Wave Bay Beach. 19 years ago I published an article about the same spot in Waves magazine, Australia, so it was a real privilege to finally make it there and share some fun, albeit tiny rides with Drew Downs and Steve Gorrow.

1 month ago
How the old world morphs into the present, here in HK.

How the old world morphs into the present, here in HK.

"You get lost out of a desire to be lost. But in the place called lost strange things are found…
“Lost really has two disparate meanings. Losing things is about the familiar falling away, getting lost is about the unfamiliar appearing.”- A Field Guide To Getting Lost, by Rebecca Solnit

"You get lost out of a desire to be lost. But in the place called lost strange things are found…
“Lost really has two disparate meanings. Losing things is about the familiar falling away, getting lost is about the unfamiliar appearing.”- A Field Guide To Getting Lost, by Rebecca Solnit

1 month ago
Going to miss this face like nothing else. #gypsyjames and our airport goodbyes… Daddy’s off to Hong Kong

Going to miss this face like nothing else. #gypsyjames and our airport goodbyes… Daddy’s off to Hong Kong


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